Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
